As you’ve probably heard, Marc Jacobs left his post at Louis Vuitton last fall, choosing to focus on his namesake label in the interest of one day taking the company public.
In his first interview since he’s had some time to think about plans for his company’s future, Jacobs candidly shared his thoughts with W. Some of the changes sound pretty radical, such as wanting to rename the Marc by Marc label and entertaining the idea of showing his main line in Paris. “It feels like an opportunity to clean house and redecorate and renovate and get in touch with what initially made us tick, you know?” he told the magazine.
Despite admitting that he feels “creatively burnt out” all the time, Jacobs sounds genuinely excited about his brand and the opportunity he has to rethink things, such as…
A new flagship: One that will encompass, under one roof, each of Jacobs’ various brands and categories, which are showcased more separately on Bleecker Street in NYC’s West Village.
All the branding: “I’m thinking we need to redesign the logo, the packaging,” said Jacobs. “What about the shopping bags? The store interiors?”
Shoes and Handbags: “I was letting the design team do the bags, and, unfortunately, without my involvement, you get a lot of merchandisers telling the design team what to do,” Jacobs said. “It got very polluted and diluted and lost its identity, and I think that’s the same with the shoes. Not to blame anybody, but things slipped, and the only one who can change that is me.”
Juergen Teller: “Juergen didn’t want to shoot Miley. I didn’t get into why,” Jacobs said. “It was our first time disagreeing, and maybe if we had disagreed more in the past I would have been more patient. Who knows? I guess a lot of people had problems with her behavior or something — because they’re all so pure and chaste, right? One thing I don’t tolerate is hypocrisy.”
How to expand and keep up with new billionaire Michael Kors (it will not involve “Project Runway”): “I don’t know if it’s about sponsoring the — what is the football thingy that happens every year? The Super Bowl? Is it about sponsoring the Super Bowl? Do we align with Disney? I don’t know. Michael Kors, he has always been a great designer — he’s been a pillar of American fashion for years and years; his sensibility hasn’t changed. But he was on “Project Runway”! He became a household name because of that. Well, I’m not going to be on “Project Runway.” I’d do other things — and believe me, I’d do things that people would question — but “Project Runway” won’t be one of them.”
Marc by Marc: With Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley at the helm, Jacobs’ diffusion line has relocated its studio to London’s Shoreditch neighborhood. It’s also going to have a new name. “The name, for starters, is going to change,” he said. “I’ve always hated that name.” Also, there are mood boards in the studio with photos of Chloe Sevigny and Gwyneth Paltrow circa “The Royal Tenenbaums,” so we are now even more excited to see this collection.
Moving to Paris: Perhaps the most shocking of Jacobs’ plans is that he’s considering showing his high-end collection in Paris instead of New York. “There’s always been this impression that I’ve been in Paris only to do Vuitton, and New York for Marc Jacobs, but that’s never been the case,” he said. “I have Marc Jacobs offices in Paris, and, if anything, maybe they need to get bigger. You know, I’m not opposed to someday showing Marc Jacobs in Paris. It’s part of what I thought might be a nice way to distinguish between the two lines.”
Considering Jacobs’ show is inarguably the most highly anticipated of New York Fashion Week, that’s a pretty big deal.
Whether or not next week is his last time showing in New York, it’s going to be an important moment for Jacobs, marking a new era for the brand.